From the Top of Africa to the Land of the Rising Sun.

Greetings from the Land of the Rising Sun!

Per usu, I am not up-to-date with regaling you with my travel adventures! Even though I am currently sitting in my room in the Kahaku Guest House in Tsukuba outside Tokyo, I last left you in Johannesburg, South Africa. In between, of course, was the Christmas holiday with its flights to New York and Ohio for me. So, we've got some ground to cover today!

So let's backtrack to sunny, warm South Africa. Probably seems a little hard to envision given the whole polar vortex sitch, but use your imagination. My next big adventure following my previous post was a Hop on Hop off red bus tour that I took to get out and see some different parts of Johannesburg. I started the tour in downtown Jo'burg, and my first hop off came at the Carlton Centre. With 50 floors, it is the tallest building in Africa (for comparison, it's about half the height of the Empire State Building), with a large shopping center spread out over the first few levels. A couple of dollars will buy you a ticket up the elevator to the top floor - referred to as the "Top of Africa" - where on a clear day you are treated to great views of the city and beyond.

View #1 from the Top of Africa

View #2 from the Top of Africa. The plaza to the left is Gandhi Square and has a statue of Gandhi (commemorating his days as a young lawyer and social activist in the city).

View #3 from the Top of Africa, with I believe the Sentech Tower in the distance.

View #4 from the Top of Africa, looking south.

You can somewhat see it in these photos, and I saw it up close as the tour drove by them later, but the city is surrounded by huge piles of dirt and rock that are in fact old mine dumps. Gold extraction techniques have improved in the last few decades, and so some mining companies have actually started revisiting these old mine dumps in lieu of tunneling even deeper underground.

 

Old mining dump on the outskirts of Johannesburg

The old "diamond" building, downtown Jozi

Ferris wheel, Gold Reef City Theme Park

The tour bus had a quick stopover here, at Gold Reef City Casino, before continuing on.

I hopped off next at the Apartheid Museum, which rather unflinchingly documents the background, origins, experience, and ultimate fall of the apartheid system in South Africa. Upon purchasing your ticket, you are randomly assigned a race (white or colored) and then must enter through the relevant door. I found the museum to be very interesting, but it is definitely very dense - they present a ton of information. It's broken down into different sections, though, so that if you want to read more about a particular topic you can. There are also lots of short video clips and other multi-media displays that make the museum very engaging. Visiting South Africa definitely made me realize just how little I ever really knew about apartheid. Beyond displacing whole communities of black people (and other non-"whites") and relegating them to slums on the fringes of the city (and then forbidding them to enter the city without a work pass), it was a system of institutionalized brutality toward non-whites in which people were imprisoned and often murdered for minor infractions. For example, one day on a drive through the city Andrew pointed out one of the old governmental buildings downtown that used to hold political prisoners and other detainees, which was known as the suicide building because so many people "committed suicide" by being thrown off its roof. With the forgiveness policy of the Truth and Reconciliation Commission, they are still learning the locations of anonymous burials of people killed during apartheid and bringing in forensic specialists to hold seminars on how to excavate and recover remains. It's a really ugly history all around, but at least the ending is rather hopeful. Mandela and his peaceful message really did win the day - the country could have easily devolved into chaos without him. Of course there is still plenty of poverty and residual social and governmental ills, but to see the revitalization slowly taking place in parts of downtown Jo'burg is heartening.

Entrance to the Apartheid Museum

After the Apartheid Museum I hopped back on the bus to see more of the city. There were a couple of other areas I was interested in checking out, but as the day was getting on, I decided to press on to the last stop I wanted to make  - the Origins Centre at Wits University. Considering all of the important human fossils that have been found in South Africa, many of which are stored at Wits, I must confess myself surprised that the Origins Centre focuses a lot more on the rock art and history of the San people and less on human evolution. I mean, there are some nice progressions of stone tool industries and a few fossil displays, but it's definitely not the main focus of the exhibits.

Why is there a dinosaur sculpture outside a museum dedicated to rock art? I have no idea, but I decided to hug it.

This was actually a little placard at the Apartheid Museum, but I thought it fit with the Origins Centre too.  :)

The last place on the bus tour was Constitution Hill, which is the location of the Constitutional Court of South Africa. The site used to house the Old Fort Prison, which held political prisoners awaiting trial. After the end of apartheid, the prison was demolished and the bricks were used to build the new courthouse.

Flame of Democracy, Constitution Hill

Constitution Hill

After my long day out and about touring the city, I came home to join my hosts for a traditional Sunday braai (bbq), complete with ostrich sausage, grilled chicken, mealies (corn), and potatoes, all cooked over hot coals. Delicious.

Andrew manning the braai while Alison looks on.

The next big event occurred the following Friday morning, when we all woke up to the news that Nelson Mandela had passed away. Given the time difference, most people in the States knew about it before we did in South Africa. That evening I went along with Andrew to visit Mandela's house, where visitors and journalists were lined up. There was a crowd of people doing some singing and dancing (culturally it's more of a celebration of the life lived than a mourning for the loss), but on the whole it was fairly low key, with visitors leaving flowers and messages along the wall to the estate.

Crowd leaving flowers and messages outside Mandela's home

After visiting Mandela's home, I joined Andrew, Alison, and Adam for the traditional Friday night pizza at Rosebank, and Saturday morning I woke up early again to do another 5K Parkrun with Andrew - this time at Delta Park. A lot of people brought their dogs to this one, which was fun, except for the first kilometer I kept feeling like I was going to trip over one because a bunch of them were leashlessly darting in and around the runners. After picking up Adam from his capoeira class, we had brunch, and then I wandered a bit around the Melville Christmas Market (really just a few street stalls on 5th). Later on in the afternoon, my hosts and I relaxed at one of the local pubs with some drinking and dining. They were pleased to introduce me to a Don Pedro - a milkshake of cream, ice cream, and whiskey - and I was pleased to make the acquaintance. It's a very tasty, Argentinian-derived cocktail that at some point became a popular dessert in South Africa.

Sunday started off with brunch with Alison and Adam (while Andrew got in a round of golf), and then I met up with Jason to head downtown to Arts on Main and the Main Street Market. It's an area of the city that was formerly fairly dangerous and run-down, and a few years back some developers stepped in, bought up a bunch of property, and helped turn it into a thriving arts scene with some great restaurants. On the weekend there's a large indoor food market with lots of different types of cuisine, craft beer, fresh-roasted coffees, etc. We decided to go for one of the Indian places, and I had a delicious roti accompanied by an IPA from Smack Republic. We sat out on the fire-escape type balcony and people-watched below as we ate. Afterwards we picked up some churros, browsed along some of the arty wares for sale, and looked at a few of the galleries.

Jason introduces me to bunny chow (curry in a hollowed-out loaf of bread), a dish popularized by the SA Indian community. It was good, but my roti was spicy and excellent.

Jason having an interactive moment with art in one of the (weirder) galleries.

"Before I die I want to ___________" chalkboard street art.

My last week in South Africa began with Andrew making his (as I was informed) ode-inducing pasta sauce. So, naturally, I waited to see if I would be inspired to write an ode, and lo and behold, I was:

There once was a man from Jozi
Whose favorite pace was a mosey
His sauce was quite nice
I enjoyed the spice
But really, t'was a pity 'bout the rosem'ry

Okay, it was more of a limerick than an ode, but "Maggi's Famous Pasta Sauce" was delicious.

The following day, another researcher and I had planned to take the day of from data collection and go to FNB Soccer Stadium for the Mandela memorial. Well, by Monday night the news was saying that there was already a crowd lined up outside the stadium waiting for the gates to open in the morning, and so I didn't think we'd have any chance of getting in. Then, I woke up to a message that my colleague was feeling under the weather and wouldn't be able to come with me. It was cold and rainy out, and I figured it just wasn't in the cards and so I went into work. I started listening to the local radio broadcasts, however, and they were actively encouraging people to come out to the stadium because there was still plenty of room - the weather was definitely keeping people away. After a little dithering, I decided that this was a moment in history I just couldn't miss and so I struck out for the stadium on my own, even though I lacked an umbrella and only had a vague idea of how to get there. I was soon soaked from the chilly drizzle, but I met some other people on their way to the stadium, and we managed to catch a bus - the entire Rea Vaya bus system was basically running routes directly to FNB. We made it to the stadium a short while before the actual ceremony got under way.

It was definitely a surreal thing to experience - the crowd definitely had zero compunctions in booing anyone of whom they didn't approve (their own president included) - but despite the crappy weather there was still a very lively atmosphere. Getting home from this event was a miserable experience (soaked to the bone, a public transportation very efficient at getting people TO the stadium but not nearly so good at getting thousands of people OUT, etc), but I am really glad I went and was a part of it.

FNB Stadium crowd, Mandela Memorial

I heard the stadium looked empty on tv, but the upper levels were packed.

Hard to tell, but that's Obama on the screen

On Thursday Jason and I went to 44 Stanley for lunch - it's a little area not too far from Wits with several fun restaurants and shops; and then in the evening I went with Alison, Andrew, and Adam to Lucky Bean in Melville, where I had a lovely springbok meat pie for dinner. And then it was Friday, my last day in Jozi! In the morning I finished up at Wits, packed up all of my equipment, and then headed off to the airport via a kindly lift from Andrew and Adam. The day was so lovely and warm and sunny, I nearly wanted to cry at the thought of returning to freezing cold London and New York.

Skeleton mural outside the door to the Dart Collection, Wits

I know, I know - you'd think I had the Bone Crusher brew, but I was actually drinking the Alliance ale!

English, Afrikaans, Zulu

THIS is the gorgeous weather I was saying goodbye to.

But, I hopped on the flight, knowing that at the other end would be a great weekend in London with my friends Jason and Luca, and then home to see Jeff and my family for the holidays!! So, after another looong flight back to England (~11 hours), I ended up in London Saturday morning and headed to Jason's flat. Luca had come in from Germany the night before, so it was great to see them both. We rented a car for the weekend, and after having some tasty pub food for lunch drove out to see Jason's office and lab space at Imperial College. Jason had joked a few months back that he needed an African mask or something for his office to add a little anthropological flavor to the biology department he was in, so to thank him for all of his hospitality during my traveling, I picked one up for him in a craft market in South Africa. After a profound discussion regarding which empty wall the mask should eventually grace, we walked around the campus grounds. There are chickens. I don't get it either.

The only time I see the sunrise is when I catch it from the other side. Train platform, London.

Imperial College, Silwood Park campus.

The Imperial College chickens (and geese).

In the evening we went to an insanely busy, insanely put-together Christmas market in London. Seriously,  how many Christmas markets have you been to with a ghost train ride? It was bizarre. But, the night is notable because it produced an opportunity for us to have roasted chestnuts! Which just seemed like a very Christmas-y thing to try.

Chestnuts!

Luca and I devise an ingenious method to share the warmth of the space heater back at Jason's flat.

Jason enjoys the warmth of the space heater and the cozy glow of the iPad yule log in the fireplace.

 On Sunday we took a day trip out to Leeds Castle, which I had been wanting to do since I learned its description was "the loveliest castle in the world" (seriously, it says that on the website). It was about an hour drive outside of the city into Kent, so while Luca napped in the backseat I helped Jason navigate. You can find our adventures at the castle outlined in the photos below!

Jason and Luca sharing a moment

First view of the loveliest castle in the world.

Gate and bridge

Lion head door knocker

Reindeer!

The castle was full of lovely decorations for Christmas.

Even Henry VIII got a festive garland.

There were decorated Christmas trees in almost every room of the castle, but this giant peacock one was one of the most impressive.

Luca tried to devour the gingerbread castle in the restaurant. The food was really good there - they had a tasty carving station AND fresh scones.

After lunch we headed out to the hedge maze on the castle grounds. Finding our way through the maze took waaaay longer than any of us want to admit...

But we made it!

2/3rds of the Unusually Strong Cohort. And Luca.

So, once you've reached the center of the hedge maze, the way out is through this bizarre underground grotto.

Fake bony passage through the grotto.

Wall mask, grotto.

 

And then walking back to the castle you get this view! It is certainly a very lovely castle, but whether it deserves to be known as the LOVELIEST I can't say. Maybe seeing it in the spring induces sufficient awe.

Luca and I hug it out on the bridge, with the lights from the Christmas market visible in the background.

No, Luca! The sign specifically says no climbing that way!

Evening starts to fall over the castle.

We stopped in to look at the Christmas market on the castle grounds and bought some cheese!

Last view of the castle.

Sign at the castle gift shop. Oh, those British peafowl!

Monday morning Luca headed back to Germany, Jason went off to do some Christmas shopping, and I went into the city and visited the Victoria and Albert Museum. It is literally right next door to the Natural History Museum, but I never made it in during the month I worked there. The V&A houses a massive collection of art and design; one of my favorite exhibits was the fashion gallery, which had European clothing styles on display from the last few hundred years. There was also a great current exhibit on theatre and performance, with everything from miniature set-design models for stage plays to costumes to marionettes. In the evening, Jason and I met up with Alejandra for dinner (she had come to London to work on her dissertation for several weeks) at a French bistro. My last few days in London definitely saw quite the NYU reunions!

Marionettes, V&A

Monkey!

Crazy light sculpture, entrance hall of the V&A

Christmas time at Harrods

Tuesday I once more packed up all of my worldly goods (now noticeably increased after four months of acquiring travel treasures...), and after a final pub lunch with Jason, headed off to Heathrow and said my final goodbyes to England.

And that lands me back in NYC, a week before Christmas! And, as this post has spiraled out of control, as so many of mine do, I will hold off on my adventures in Tokyo until next time.

The Christmas tree in front of the Washington Square Arch, NYC

Thanks for all of the encouragement to keep writing - this has been a great record for me, but it's nice to hear that other people enjoy it.

Sayonara!
~Emily-san

(Yes! They call me that here! It's great.)

A little Japan preview: Bridge in front of the Imperial Palace, Tokyo